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[netizen]

Hi all (first post).

I'm planning to get rid of my car and buy a Zero S. We have another car and mine was only used for my commute to work, about 15Km of road/1Km urban. Also, this would be my first bike.
I wasn't sure about 7.2 vs 14.4 because now I've little to no time to make pleasure routes because 1yr old child, but I'd love being able to use the bike more in the future, and Zero seems to have discontinued the lower battery model in Europe.

My first choice was a brand new  7.2 because it's enough for my commute, but now I think the 14.4 is quite expensive.
I've seen a couple of used ones, on the $10k range, one is a 7.2 with charge tank, and the other one a 14.4, both 2018 model. Adding a charge tank to the 14.4 would cover future extended usage for under the price tag for my first choice.

Both used ones (and most that I'll find) are just over the EU's 2yr warranty (battery would still get 3yr), and I can do a test ride on a brand new, and these, to compare and detect vibrations or whatever.

Is there any way to really know the battery status?
Can you offer me any other hint/advice?

[Richard230]

I still haven't been able to detect any battery degradation with my daughter's 2014 S, compared with my 2018 S model. Both of those bikes have the Power Tank installed as neither of us have homes with a 240V outlet, so the PT was more useful than a CT for us. I don't think you need to worry much about battery capacity loss - as long as the bike has been properly stored and charged so that the battery pack's charge had not dropped too low for too long. The only problems that we have both had with our bikes is failure of the 120/240V on-board charger that had to be replaced at a cost of $800 USD for the part. So that does seem to be a weak link that is not warrantied after 2 years. Fortunately if you had to replace the charger box it is not too hard to do in your garage with simple hand tools.

[DonTom]

Hi all (first post).Can you offer me any other hint/advice?

Things to consider:

A battery twice the size is likely to last twice as long under the same load.

However, a battery failing late during warranty period is often good news, as it usually  means a upgraded battery capacity.

My DS 6.5 now has a 7.2 KWH battery in it, at no cost to me.

Both my Zeros (listed below) are the same age and have around the same mileage on each.  My SR still has as much range as when it was new.

The range on my DS dropped to less than half, but that was good news.

Having the bike with the longer range is sometimes nice, but when on the road, you have to charge it twice as long to get that better range. Which is best for what depends on your own situations, such as charge station locations.

I take my DS on RV trips on a trailer hitch.  My  SR is too heavy for that. Many things to consider.  Different bikes for different needs.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[Shadow]

Other mobility options to compare with are the Sur Ron, and the Onewheel. It's only 10mi each way. You could really just do it on a bicycle.

Any old Zero 2015+ even an FX with a single brick ZF2.8 would get it done.

Advice: go with something lightweight and don't spend a lot of money on it, then when you're ready for a longer range the technology will be much better and go ahead spend a lot of money on a really nice vehicle.

[valnar]

Any of the Zero models will do that commute just fine, multiple times.  Although this isn't a concern for seasoned riders, you may want to make sure a 189kg bike is no problem for you before picking the heavier option.

[TheRan]

Depending on what stuff you have to take to work the second storage compartment of a 7.2 S/DS (behind the battery) might be appealing.

[JaimeC]

Seriously, if that distance is your only concern I wouldn't bother with ANY of the Zero models.  A pedal-assisted bicycle is really all you need for a LOT less money.  Something like:
https://fuell.us/us/fuell-flluid-ebicycle

[TheRan]

He's in the EU and I think they have the same 250w limit and ~15mph max assistance speed that we have in the UK, so a legal electrically assisted bike would be a bit slower and require more effort. That said there are other cheaper alternatives to a Zero that would do the commute just as quick, for example a Super Soco TC Max isn't much more than that Fuell and a CPx could even be a little bit cheaper (with a single battery).

[JaimeC]

He's in the EU and I think they have the same 250w limit and ~15mph max assistance speed that we have in the UK, so a legal electrically assisted bike would be a bit slower and require more effort. That said there are other cheaper alternatives to a Zero that would do the commute just as quick, for example a Super Soco TC Max isn't much more than that Fuell and a CPx could even be a little bit cheaper (with a single battery).

Damn, that's a shame because that bike is capable of going faster than 15mph.  Even the lower end model can do 20!

[TheRan]

He's in the EU and I think they have the same 250w limit and ~15mph max assistance speed that we have in the UK, so a legal electrically assisted bike would be a bit slower and require more effort. That said there are other cheaper alternatives to a Zero that would do the commute just as quick, for example a Super Soco TC Max isn't much more than that Fuell and a CPx could even be a little bit cheaper (with a single battery).

Damn, that's a shame because that bike is capable of going faster than 15mph.  Even the lower end model can do 20!

Yeah, even 250w is enough to go faster than 15mph, that's just the limit at which assistance must stop. The thing is it's not really all that hard to pedal faster than that on flat ground, so really the assistance mostly comes into effect when accelerating or climbing hills and then once you're up to speed it's all leg power. On the plus side it's good for maximising range.

It would be okay if they allowed a throttle input because then you could just pin it at 15mph when you're feeling lazy, instead of trying to limit how much effort you put in to make sure you stay below the assistance limit.

[netizen]

Wow. many thanks for all your comments,tips,  and help.

I'll add some more background. My initial mid life crisis solving plan ws a bike, an A1/125cc, to be changed later to an A2 like Suzuki GS500. I was/am looking only to street/naked models. I like that look, and I can't use the bike to travel with my family (but a trailer hitch is also an option for holidays).

The idea of switch from car to the bike started as I found the Zero S, and falling in love with every aspect of it (price aside). So it's not about if there are other or even better  commute options. What I want is to ride it.
I think it's overpowered for a newbie, but on the other side all you need is the app to set limits according to my capacities, and leveling up from time to time. Yes, I can try sports mode in many industrial areas' straight streets, but I'm sure I don't need it for my commute road. Also I'm not crazy for speed, and quite never drive over the legal limits. I can't pass that truck? Oh, he can't feel the cornering. Deal.

So now about the weight. I know it's a big difference. It's the bigger one really too much for a trailer. I think I can live without the bike for a couple of weeks I'm far from home. On the other side, I've read the 7.2 being more easy to ride, but the range is just enough to get from a CP to the next (yes, this is going better faster than I thought). I risk to find an offline CP with no option to reach another one. I think it's enough handicap to have a look at the CP locations before a trip/route. With the 14.4 I'll have to check the maps also, but I'd be able to do a short stop or even get to the next one.

Again, many thanks

[leonhart_27]

I'm a Zero S 14.4 2020 owner and this is my first bike so maybe my experience helps you.

I did the test ride after testing a 125cc scooter the day before for 1 hour in my town. The test ride model was a 2019 Zero S 14.4 2019, so exactly the same I finally bought and the test consisted going from Barcelona (where the dealer is) to my town which is 30 minutes away and then returning going through a big city first, then to a mountain paved road which ends in my town and to return to Barcelona I took a highway. I rode the full test ride in ECO mode, even that mode was so quick. In highway I tried CUSTOM for 1 minute, then jumped to SPORT and 5 seconds later, astonished by the power, returned to ECO mode.

So, to sum up, the test ride was a really nice experience, I didn't have any problems, I felt the bike heavy but doable and after 5 months of riding my own Zero I'm just so happy with it and I think it's an acceptable bike for a learner as it's been for me. Maybe other options are better but definitely a Zero can be driven by even someone who just had 1 hour practise before.

[Richard230]

Regarding weight: I have weighed the three Zeros that I have owned and have found that Zero's claimed weight in their specifications is within a kilogram or two of the actual weight of the bikes. Most Zeros seem pretty well balanced, unless you go for the Power Tank or Charge Tank options. Those items will make the bikes kind of top heavy and will detract from quick cornering transitions.

[Moto7575]

Key advice : first ensure that you dealer will be there to support you when you'll have service need or issues with the bike. If you have doubts, don't buy.

[Crissa]

My spouse bought me the S because she estimated that riding a capable motorcycle would keep me out of more trouble than being stuck to bicycle or moped speeds.

I really did like the Class 3 e-bikes.  They felt great.  But about half of my commuting is on the highway, and at bicycle speeds, at least twice as many cars pass me than if I'm able to keep up with them.  And wearing full motorcycle gear is only possible on a full motorcycle - can't do it on a bicycle I need to pedal.

Like anything, always make sure to double-check your work orders when you get things serviced.    But I find the electric really fits my very-little-to-check other than tires and brakes.

-Crissa