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Author Topic: SR/F belt adjustment  (Read 366 times)

vinceherman

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SR/F belt adjustment
« on: October 04, 2019, 05:42:19 AM »

I have been meaning to adjust the belt on my bike for some time.  On the back it was pretty much up against the rim of the pulley.
I had time today and got out the tools.  Hmmm...  My impact sockets only go up to 24mm.  Checks online - 27mm socket
Hello auto parts for an $8 socket.
Back to the garage.
T-45 ready to go.  I did not even remove the fender arm.
Newly installed Gates Carbon app of the phone.  Check the tension before, every quarter turn of the wheel.
33hz 33hz 34hz 33hz
Um, that is not what I remember from the manual I just read 10 minutes ago.
Inside to pop the manual back up.
62hz to 82hz
Maybe I HAVE heard the belt skip going over bumps.
Loosen the axle
Quarter turn on both adjusters
Check frequency with App
66hz.
Now to adjust the tracking.  Since I have this up on the rack, I was brave (stupid?) enough to key on the bike and spin the tire.  No change in the belt placement.
1/8 turn on the right adjuster and spin up the wheel.  Small movement.
Another 1/8 turn.  Big movement.
Back 1/8 turn.  Still too far in.
Back another 1/16 turn.  Back up against the rim of the pulley.
I fudged back and forth until the belt was just off of the rim of the pulley.
Tightened and torqued the axle.  Check the frequency again.  70hz
I guess that is better.
Test ride around the block and it did not blow up.


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ESokoloff

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Re: SR/F belt adjustment
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2019, 08:02:34 AM »

Here are my notes for tensioning my 2016 DSR. 
Likely enough similarities to be helpful.


20/30kg tension checked with this.... https://www.google.com/search?q=krikit&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS630US630&oq=krikit&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.2960j0j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right.
Best to get the belt in the correct position (left/right) then adjust tension.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side biases as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.     
Must use rolling head prybar to pry the right side towards its jack-screw (or just Smack the tire/rim).
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw appears to cause a 10KG difference to tension.
Use 1-1/16" to tension axle nut to 102NM (75#/')

I didn't have the correct mm socket for the axle nut but found that 1-1/16" fit correctly.
I found that the jack screws (bolts) had embossed figuring on the head that chewed into the aluminum axle block so I removed them & ground this down so they are now smooth. 
I put a bit of antiseize on the threads before reinserting. 

I can't comment on the new style (as I have no experience with it), but on the old style only the left jack bolt adds tension to the belt.
The right side is adjusted along with the left side to insure proper alignment until the axle nut is thightened.
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Eric
2016 Zero DSR
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