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[vinceherman]

I think my front brake switch is flaky.
I was riding on the interstate with the cruise on and was just catching up to slower traffic.
Time to tap the front brake to disable the cruise.
Tap.
Still on cruise.  Must not have actually moved the brake lever.
*Tap*
Cruise on, still slowly approaching the car.  Weird.
Grab the brake, nose dives down a bit confirming that the brake lever did, in deed, move.
Cruise still enabled and now accelerating back up to the set speed.
The brain is starting to ramp up to alarm.  I start to prepare for unhappy events.  That preparation includes my foot on the rear brake.
Boink! cruise disabled.

So, no cruise on the way home today.
At the garage, I backed the bike up against the wall so I could see the brake light reflected off the white paint.
Any tap of the rear brake pedal activates the brake light.
The front brake handle occasionally activates the brake light, but usually does not.

I know this has worked accurately up to this point.  I use the cruise a lot.  On the interstate and on the parkway at 30mph.  While I wish it were easier to set and adjust, I am OK with its operation and has disengaged when I wanted it to disengage in the past.  This flakiness is new behavior.

Certainly, this is going in to the shop.  But do you have any ideas what might make the switch go flaky?

[DonTom]

The front brake handle occasionally activates the brake light, but usually does not.

Does how hard you  press in the front brake lever make a difference  on the brake light?  I am thinking it could be just a simple adjustment of where your brake light cones on, which will also affect where the cruise control will drop  out as it most likely runs from the same voltage as the brake light.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[vinceherman]

My testing in the garage says that the amount of pressure does not affect the switch.
Light tap. Nothing.
Heavy squeeze.  Nothing.
Squeeze repeatedly 10 times.  The light blinks on squeeze number 7.

[NetPro]

The switch is held in place by two very small Phillips screws.
Check and see if by chance they have gotten loose by grabbing the switch gently and see if it feels loose.
Also check for any play on the brake lever itself. The way it is designed, the lever has a mall vertical bar that has to hit the switch just right to work properly.
If it is just a bit off, it won't press the little white button on the switch that makes the magic happen.

[vinceherman]

The switch is held in place by two very small Phillips screws.
Check and see if by chance they have gotten loose by grabbing the switch gently and see if it feels loose.

I could not make the switch move.

Also check for any play on the brake lever itself. The way it is designed, the lever has a mall vertical bar that has to hit the switch just right to work properly.
If it is just a bit off, it won't press the little white button on the switch that makes the magic happen.

It does hit the switch accurately. I can hear the contact switch click as soon as the lever moves.  I hear it click as the lever returns to its home position.  The slightest movement of the lever makes the switch click.  I believe that the movement of the lever and the placement of the switch are accurate.  While checking and fiddling with this, I only occasionally got the brake light to light.
I held the lever and operated the switch directly with my thumbnail.  The tip of the contact point appears rubberized as if sealed from the rain.  I worked it, giving slight up and down and side to side movements as I pressed it in and out.  The light started blinking more often.  I repeated this manual operation for about a minute and the brake light started to behave as expected.  Now, each click of the contact switch lights the brake light.  I am unable to reproduce the failure now.
I think I will hold off on the service call unless the switch misbehaves again.  Now that I know about it it will not be a surprise.
Oh, and I will definitely look at the brake light and squeeze the front brake every time I get on!

[vinceherman]

And I changed my mind.  That is to say, Zero reached out to me and suggested that I should get this in for service.
As soon as Cleveland Moto opens tomorrow, I will make the appointment to drop it off.

[alko]

I think my front brake switch is flaky.
I was riding on the interstate with the cruise on and was just catching up to slower traffic.
Time to tap the front brake to disable the cruise.
Tap.
Still on cruise.  Must not have actually moved the brake lever.
*Tap*
Cruise on, still slowly approaching the car.  Weird.
Grab the brake, nose dives down a bit confirming that the brake lever did, in deed, move.
Cruise still enabled and now accelerating back up to the set speed.
The brain is starting to ramp up to alarm.  I start to prepare for unhappy events.  That preparation includes my foot on the rear brake.
Boink! cruise disabled.

So, no cruise on the way home today.
At the garage, I backed the bike up against the wall so I could see the brake light reflected off the white paint.
Any tap of the rear brake pedal activates the brake light.
The front brake handle occasionally activates the brake light, but usually does not.

I know this has worked accurately up to this point.  I use the cruise a lot.  On the interstate and on the parkway at 30mph.  While I wish it were easier to set and adjust, I am OK with its operation and has disengaged when I wanted it to disengage in the past.  This flakiness is new behavior.

Certainly, this is going in to the shop.  But do you have any ideas what might make the switch go flaky?

My dsr  had that problem with brake light not working using front brake lever. If the sr/f is similar, that its just out of adjustment. Your manual should explain it. In the pic of my dsr lever, that hole contains a set screw adjustment, but from underneath that hole, there is another set screw that tightens onto the adjustment screw that you need to loosen first. Adjust it in or out till your brake light comes on when you want it to. On my dsr, it also adjusts regen actuation. On the sr/f, it probably also deactivates cruise control.

[vinceherman]

I dropped the bike off at Cleveland Moto last night.

I have a sad empty hole in my soul where my SR/F used to be.   
And, yes, as I walked through the garage on my way to the car this morning, I stopped and stood, staring at the empty space in the garage where the SR/F is usually parked, and frowned.

Oh, I am also having them do a (slightly overdue) 600 mile checkup and commissioning.

[stevenh]

I think my front brake switch is flaky.
I was riding on the interstate with the cruise on and was just catching up to slower traffic.
Time to tap the front brake to disable the cruise.
Tap.
Still on cruise.  Must not have actually moved the brake lever.
*Tap*
Cruise on, still slowly approaching the car.  Weird.
Grab the brake, nose dives down a bit confirming that the brake lever did, in deed, move.
Cruise still enabled and now accelerating back up to the set speed.
The brain is starting to ramp up to alarm.  I start to prepare for unhappy events.  That preparation includes my foot on the rear brake.
Boink! cruise disabled.

So, no cruise on the way home today.
At the garage, I backed the bike up against the wall so I could see the brake light reflected off the white paint.
Any tap of the rear brake pedal activates the brake light.
The front brake handle occasionally activates the brake light, but usually does not.

I know this has worked accurately up to this point.  I use the cruise a lot.  On the interstate and on the parkway at 30mph.  While I wish it were easier to set and adjust, I am OK with its operation and has disengaged when I wanted it to disengage in the past.  This flakiness is new behavior.

Certainly, this is going in to the shop.  But do you have any ideas what might make the switch go flaky?

Not fun I am sure.  FYI, not that your (or my) brain would have time to process, but a quick tap on the cruise button disables it as well.

Steve

[vinceherman]

Not fun I am sure.  FYI, not that your (or my) brain would have time to process, but a quick tap on the cruise button disables it as well.

Steve

I did not have to think it through because as we were taught in the motorcycle foundation safety classes, braking should involve both front and rear all the time.  That way, in a panic, you will automatically use both.

If my then girlfriend now wife had not asked to get her license, I probably would never have taken the class.  I learned a lot!

[vinceherman]

I just got an update from my dealer on the service.  The replacement brake switch arrived and has been installed.  Good there.
The 600 mile service has been performed short of the motor commissioning.
They said that the application for the SR/F is different than for the other models.  The attempt to install that application on their shop laptop failed.  They will get a new (newer?) laptop tomorrow but will Zero's schedule and the shops schedule do not line up again until Tuesday.
Fortunately for me, the dealer is only a half hour away.  I will pick up the bike and enjoy the weekend riding it and bring it back for the commissioning some time next week.

I am liking the service I am getting from Cleveland Moto.