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[oldnoah]

I have  2016 Zero S with 26k miles on it. For the first 2 years I didn't have any charging problems, but in 2018 I noticed the cable getting hot, especially near the receptacle on the bike. I tried cleaning the contacts, both inside the cable (with a file) and the male pins on the bike (with electrical contact cleaner), but it didn't work. I bought a replacement cable, which seemed to work for a short time, but it got hot again pretty soon. At this time I also started having problems with the bike tripping GFCI outlets.
This spring, when I took it out of storage, I noticed that the cable was burned  around the neutral pin in the cable end. I bought two new cables, one for work, and one for home. They both burned in the same way. I bought two new cables, which were "medical grade" NEMA5-15P/C13 14 Ga cables, and then cleaned the pins in the connector in bike using a file. The first couple of charges seemed to stay cool, but then the cable discolored and then burned on the following charge.
Has anyone else had this problem?
The problem is compounded by the fact that the place I bought the bike stopped being a Zero dealer. They are still willing to work on the bike, but Zero doesn't consider them a service center anymore. The nearest dealer is 110 miles away. So I'm going to have to trailer it to the dealership.

[alko]

I've wondered myself how long the stock cable is suppose to last. Obviously the c-13 end is going to wear out faster, and when it does, it wont fit as tightly and overheat. Changing out the plug on the bike looks like a big job.

[vinceherman]

Could this be a problem with arcing while plugging in?
I thought that I had read some users using a switched outlet so that the plug could be connected with no power, preventing arcing damage.
Then after the plug is connected, throw the switch to apply power.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Relevant (which the OP seems to have already consulted and tried):
- https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Common_Problems#Stuck.2FWarm_Charging_Cord
- https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Common_Modifications#Spare_Onboard_Charger_Power_Cables

There should be a more generic version of this issue, since charging cords eventually wear out in one way or another, but your inlet or the onboard charger may be deteriorating. The inlet is cheap to replace but labor-intensive. The onboard charger is easier to replace but more expensive.

[alko]

Could this be a problem with arcing while plugging in?
I thought that I had read some users using a switched outlet so that the plug could be connected with no power, preventing arcing damage.
Then after the plug is connected, throw the switch to apply power.

No arching with me. I learned early on how to plug in to prevent arching at the bike end, but I like the idea of having a "switched" wall outlet.

[yhafting]

I have  2016 Zero S with 26k miles on it. For the first 2 years I didn't have any charging problems, but in 2018 I noticed the cable getting hot, especially near the receptacle on the bike. I tried cleaning the contacts, both inside the cable (with a file) and the male pins on the bike (with electrical contact cleaner), but it didn't work. I bought a replacement cable, which seemed to work for a short time, but it got hot again pretty soon. At this time I also started having problems with the bike tripping GFCI outlets.
This spring, when I took it out of storage, I noticed that the cable was burned  around the neutral pin in the cable end. I bought two new cables, one for work, and one for home. They both burned in the same way. I bought two new cables, which were "medical grade" NEMA5-15P/C13 14 Ga cables, and then cleaned the pins in the connector in bike using a file. The first couple of charges seemed to stay cool, but then the cable discolored and then burned on the following charge.
Has anyone else had this problem?
The problem is compounded by the fact that the place I bought the bike stopped being a Zero dealer. They are still willing to work on the bike, but Zero doesn't consider them a service center anymore. The nearest dealer is 110 miles away. So I'm going to have to trailer it to the dealership.

I have had problem with arcing. But as we have 230V AC, 6A is really not enough to cause trouble with heat*.
But Arcing is a serious problem, so my solution was to buy a switch that i connect between the outlet and the cable. Having this off while connecting, there will be no arcing in the connection between the bike and the cable. Arcing within the switch may still be a problem, but the switch is easier to replace than the bike socket, so this is what i do.

In addition to this, the bike charger is very moodsick, meaning that it will trip my breaker frequently. I have reduced the amount of times the bike trips the fuse (16A fuse for 6A, solely used for the bike...) by having the bike keyed on before i turn on the power. Lately however, when running the battery low (~20-25%), or in warm humid weather, the bike still trips the breaker quite frequently, but it tends to work if i leave it off for a while before attempting again.

* For charging EVs in general, anything above 10A is considered unsafe using ordinary household (schuko) plugs. They are not made to last if you replug often, and they tend to go warm after being in use for months/ years, but if you keep the wire attached to the wall or a switch permanently attached to the wall outlet, you will minimize that problem. 

[ESokoloff]

Could this be a problem with arcing while plugging in?
I thought that I had read some users using a switched outlet so that the plug could be connected with no power, preventing arcing damage.
Then after the plug is connected, throw the switch to apply power.

No arching with me. I learned early on how to plug in to prevent arching at the bike end, but I like the idea of having a "switched" wall outlet.

Yep, plug the cord into the bike before plugging into the wall socket.

[alko]

Could this be a problem with arcing while plugging in?
I thought that I had read some users using a switched outlet so that the plug could be connected with no power, preventing arcing damage.
Then after the plug is connected, throw the switch to apply power.

No arching with me. I learned early on how to plug in to prevent arching at the bike end, but I like the idea of having a "switched" wall outlet.

Yep, plug the cord into the bike before plugging into the wall socket.

Than when finished charging, unplug the wall socket before unplugging from the bike.

[NetPro]

Then when finished charging, unplug the wall socket before unplugging from the bike.

Doing it this way you only need to worry about replacing the wall outlet and the plug from the cable after X number of chargers.
These are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than the ones at the other end.

[alko]

Then when finished charging, unplug the wall socket before unplugging from the bike.

Doing it this way you only need to worry about replacing the wall outlet and the plug from the cable after X number of chargers.
These are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than the ones at the other end.

I disagree. Most plugs dont get plugged and unplugged as often as our chargers do. Sometimes every day. They get worn from normal use. What I want to know is how long will a cord last with normal use? And how long before the bike input plug needs to be replaced. I've had power tool plugs and extension cords wear out so bad that they hardly stay plugged in anymore. It's not from arching, but everyday use.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

My cords typically lasted about two years each. Replacements were inexpensive, until my onboard charger died and I gave up.

But this will vary with the amount of dirt and moisture encountered. I probably had more than some did when I lived in Seattle, and less here in the San Francisco area (but it's not arid here).

[Neuer_User]

My bike had been charged for about two years (and about 17000 km) on my wall socket in my garage (220V). I always followed the advice of plugging in first the bike and then the wall socket (and vice versa when unplugging). So far, I did not see any visible damage.
Nonetheless, I replaced the wall socket against a new one as I had a 3 phase line installed to my garage. The new socket is extremely similar to the old one, consisting of the same 220V socket, but instead of one phase has additional two phases.
 
My electrician recommended me to instead install a CEE socket (which is much more durable), but that unfortunately didn't meet the WAF.  Instead I had a switch installed into the 3-phase wire, so that the whole line can be switched on/off electronically, which has the additional advantage that it can programmatically switch on the power only over night when it is cheaper. 

[DonTom]

I have  2016 Zero S with 26k miles on it. For the first 2 years I didn't have any charging problems, but in 2018 I noticed the cable getting hot, especially near the receptacle on the bike. I tried cleaning the contacts, both inside the cable (with a file) and the male pins on the bike (with electrical contact cleaner), but it didn't work. I bought a replacement cable, which seemed to work for a short time, but it got hot again pretty soon. At this time I also started having problems with the bike tripping GFCI outlets.
This spring, when I took it out of storage, I noticed that the cable was burned  around the neutral pin in the cable end. I bought two new cables, one for work, and one for home. They both burned in the same way. I bought two new cables, which were "medical grade" NEMA5-15P/C13 14 Ga cables, and then cleaned the pins in the connector in bike using a file. The first couple of charges seemed to stay cool, but then the cable discolored and then burned on the following charge.
Has anyone else had this problem?
The problem is compounded by the fact that the place I bought the bike stopped being a Zero dealer. They are still willing to work on the bike, but Zero doesn't consider them a service center anymore. The nearest dealer is 110 miles away. So I'm going to have to trailer it to the dealership.

Have you tried another cord to the bike? Could be higher resistance in the old cord.

It is possible the bike is fine.  Edit:Oh, I see you have tried other cords.  14 gauge wire? That should be good for 20 amps and at 120 VAC I would expect a 13 amp or so draw.

The other possibility is your charger is drawing too much current--which most likely means it's crapping out.  Can you check the current with one of these thingies?

But you have to separate the wires in the cord to test.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[pacificcricket]

I had a problem like that - arcing when plugging the C13 into the bike. It wasn't like that when I got the bike, and the problem only became apparent some 2 years down the road (around 2016), and then... the charger died. It was then 2.5 years since buying the bike, so it took some complaining (reasonable) to Zero to get it fixed on their account. Now another two and a half years later that replacement charger is going strong, and there is no arcing... I plug in the cord, then after a certain delay I hear the contactor to click, and charging begins. I assume until that click the load is very small, if any, and there shouldn't be any arcing.

Bottom line, this maybe a symptom of malfunctioning charger that may soon go out.

[KrazyEd]

I have mentioned this in previous cord related posts. If charging my SR from an outlet ( Which I try not to do after 4 charger replacements ),
I use TWO cords, one 5-15P ~ C-19R and One C-20P ~ C-13R Both 12AWG. The " HEAVY DUTY " cords are mostly 14AWG so you either have to
do a lot of searching or build your own.
With this set up, I plug one cord into the bike, leave one plugged into the wall and just plug the two cords together. No stress to either wall or bike.
Since bike is now out of warranty, I only use on board charger if ABSOLUTELY necessary. If using regular wall outlet, I use off board QuiQ charger at 1KW.
If using public station I use the Elcon 2500. If necessary, the Elcon can be plugged in to the C-19 cord that is living in the wall outlet.
Zero says that the problem with chargers is moisture. I live in Vegas. We don't have moisture. Bike never ridden in the rain. Wiped down, not hosed off,
drive around puddles or if I HAVE to ride through, slow almost to a stop so as not to "splash". With this setup, NONE of the four ends is ever much more than warm to the touch. NEVER hot
You could also wire outlet for 20 Amp to make it easier to find 12AWG cord. You won't be using 20 amps so should not cause problem with breakers. Other heavy duty 20 amp options could
be used as well, you just have to do the conversion.
THIS one is easier to find as the C19, C20 are usually heavier duty use

https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Heavy-Duty-IEC-320-C20-P032-007/dp/B000FAIEB2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=c20+cord+12awg+-14awg&qid=1561755610&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Hopefully this helps