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[BamBam]

I've been reading a lot about problems with the accuracy of the SOC and miles remaining gauges on the Zero and in the app and that we should only trust an accurate voltage meter to determine actual SOC, so I'm wondering what folks out there are using.

Would this very inexpensive one being sold on Amazon do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZLM182/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ElectricZen]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/1694275203975014/

This is the recommendation from a long time rider/user.

Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The citation above is for the Cycle Analyst v2.4 CA-HC http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-analyst.html

This is relatively advanced to install because it also installs a current instrument. It would help if a voltage-only install were available that were easier to install.

The accuracy of typical cheaper (but fine) voltmeters is 3 digit display which doesn't help us above 100V. So a 4-digit display would be best if we can find one.

[Булгаков]

i used DROK 200VDC meter from amazon (it's blue, so matches dash backlight too) successfully. it claims it is waterproof but first one lasted 9 months until moisture killed it. second one i added hotglue and no moisture problems for maybe a year in frequent rainstorms and never kept in garage. I like it a lot and is much cheaper (but much uglier) than nice solution like cycle analyst. i will post photos when i have a moment.  make sure to add a fuse.

[Obri]

I do not think that it is a good idea to use a Voltmeter that has no safety ratings and costs about $5 on a battery that can deliver a massive current. And if you decide to do that, install a HRC fuse and make sure that the fuse is rated for at least 100V DC (not AC!)

I do not yet know much about the zero BMS and MBB, i do have two other electric motorcycles and they do both provide voltage, current and much more over CAN and serial interfaces.

[Burton]

I have several colored DROK's for the under 33vdc monitoring I need to install on my bike ... I have recommended them in the past but like all things electrical if you plan to ride in the rain make sure you supplement the weather rating with a windshield if you can.

Even the CA isn't waterproof ... the back where the wires enter have open holes which need to be filled and taped or heat shrink'ed off to protect from rain. (ask me how I know)

If you see my signature you can find the post where I have a video of the post install and wire routing if I recall ... doc bass is also on there talking about shunt sizes. I went with the 0.25 if I recall (it is big) and haven't had any issues on the SR's

[Булгаков]

I do not think that it is a good idea to use a Voltmeter that has no safety ratings and costs about $5 on a battery that can deliver a massive current. And if you decide to do that, install a HRC fuse and make sure that the fuse is rated for at least 100V DC (not AC!)

Yes, of course, I mentioned I use a fuse for my cheapo voltmeter. Everything connected to power gets a fuse (or a breaker) whether it's cheap or not.

[BamBam]

Thanks everyone for the input.  The Cycle Analyst gauge is more cost and effort than I want to get into.  I'M just looking to install one the cheap Drok voltmeters.  I'll be sure to also install a fuse.  I would appreciate some recommendations on what to use for that.  I like the three wire unit that has a separate wire to power the unit so that I can tie that into a switched 12V source.

[Doctorbass]

Just make sure the display you will find is waterproof !!  rain and 116V might make your trip very" difficult" for you.

I mentionned teh cycle analyst as it is 100% made for EV and is waterproof as well.  Yes it is  100+$ but the info it give you are briliant and really does help you to predict your range or adapt your speed to get the desired range in real time.

Doc

[Shadow]

The android "Zero Voltage" app is a good start, at $5 you can pay cash for a $10 Google Play Store gift card and buy it that way if you're not interested in giving Google a credit card.

Also I carry now a pocket digital multi-meter, in example I bought a pocket DMM from Fry's Electronics similar to this (Amazon link provided): https://www.amazon.com/Triplett-Pocket-Sized-Autoranging-Multimeter-Measurement/dp/B0002UCSG2

The voltage from the AUX port and what is shown by the Zero Voltage app may be different in certain circumstances when a Power Tank is installed;  depending on "Run ready" or kickstand/disable interlocks engaged. I never got to the bottom of this logic as I do not any longer have a Power Tank.

[Булгаков]

Yes, I also leave a cheap voltmeter in my saddlebags at all times "just in case"  ...

As for DROK voltmeter, I used small project box to mount it in, then used pipe clamp to secure it to middle of handlebars between handle bar risers. I used the 2 wire version (also in blue, which matches the Zero display) and it powers on as soon as the contactor opens, so it doesn't need a supplementary 12VDC power source. Very very simple. I run wires (with fuse!) to the terminals on the motor controller (where I also have my auxiliary charge port connected). Shielding on the wires to DROK multimeter is important so that vibration from riding doesn't wear through insulation ...

And of course, dielectric grease, heat-shrink over connections, hot glue sealing, and condensation drip holes in the project box are all important.

[BamBam]

Some pics would be very helpful.  I'd also appreciate a link to the fuse you used.