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[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Here's a video showing how I changed the front pulley on my 2011 Zero S.



Still don't know how to calibrate the speedometer. Right now I just remember that my it shows 12% faster than my actual speed.

[NEW2elec]

Well that's a nice video and I'll hand it to you, your not one to give up.
So as luck would have it MorbidBBQ posted a speedo adjustment for his 13 S which involved a new rear gear but the 2011 has the same dash piece I think so it might work.

http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7755.0

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Update after a few months of riding/tinkering: I still get about 25 miles to a full charge; not much of a change there.
My top speed is actually a little faster than it was before (about 57 MPH). I suspect it's because there's more torque available to overcome the wind-resistance.
 Also, I was able to re-calibrate the speedometer so it matches the new gear ratio. Now everything is accurate and quicker.
 It's much more pleasant to ride.

[Curt]

I think the thing you repeatedly refer to as the keyway is actually the key. The keyway is the slot that the key slides into.

Really nice job on the simple but solid solution!

I would like to up the torque on my FX using a smaller front sprocket for the purposes of living more dangerously. But it is already at 25T.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

I think the thing you repeatedly refer to as the keyway is actually the key. The keyway is the slot that the key slides into.

That makes sense; thanks for correcting me. (The dudes at the hardware store kept calling that thing a 'keyway'.)

[craigster]

Here's a video showing how I changed the front pulley on my 2011 Zero S.



Still don't know how to calibrate the speedometer. Right now I just remember that my it shows 12% faster than my actual speed.

Is it a 3/4 Shaft for the motor or 19MM (2 thousands of an inch smaller than 19mm) everything I am seeing shows 19mm but your video you say you used 3/4 hub sized pulley. Please let me know asap.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Craigster,
  You might be right.
  I still have the original pulley I took off my Zero. My calipers show its inner diameter to be 19.00mm at the end closest to the motor and 18.77mm at the outer end, so it's very slightly tapered. (3/4 of an inch is 19.05mm).
 These numbers are all so close that 19mm and 3/4" didn't make any difference during my pulley upgrade.

[Bill822]

In a high torque application like this I would recommend pinning the bushing, match drilling through the bushing and shaft then inserting one steel dowel pin https://www.mcmaster.com/dowel-pins through the shaft or two pins on opposite sides, filing the edges for a flush fit. As shown in the video the bushing is floating. Over time the key will likely develop some slop and potentially fail causing damage to the sheave and maybe the shaft. Drilling the hardened shaft will be difficult and requires a good drill press or a mill.

For future reference of anyone undertaking a similar project a good source for quality hardware is McMaster-Carr. They have a vast array of fasteners, hardware, and raw material. Order online for delivery.  https://www.mcmaster.com/

Grainger Industrial Supply, mentioned in the video, also carries a lot of interesting stuff https://www.grainger.com/