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[MostlyBonkers]

I used to use eco mode in wet weather when I was running on the stock Kendra tyres my DS came with. They were rubbish and were actually quite dangerous when the were nearly worn out.

With good tyres and more miles under my belt I still occasionally use Eco mode when I need maximum range. The reduced torque and throttle response encourages steady riding. It's boring though and gets switched back to custom as soon as possible. I never use sport mode because I like full throttle-off regen.  It helps with cornering, by the way, in much the same way as entering a corner in a lower gear does on an ICE bike.

[ultrarnr]

My vote is on using self-restraint. The muted acceleration with Eco mode means you may not be able to accelerate away from a dangerous situation leaving you with one less option in dealing with the situation. The potential for extra range is not worth the risk.

[Richard230]

My "eco" mode is my right wrist.   

[JaimeC]

Basically, when I ride around town, I use my "Custom" mode which is 100% for both torque and regen.  I get acceleration when I need it, and I don't have to use the brakes very often.  HOWEVER, when I hit the highway for my daily commute, I switch to "Eco" mode and use that like a "Poor Man's Cruise Control."  The speed limit here in New York may be 55, but unless you're doing 70 or better you're more than likely to get run off the road.

So, I put it into Eco mode (which still gives me more than enough acceleration to pull into traffic from the entrance lane) and just hold the "throttle" WFO till I reach my exit, at which point I thumb it back into "Custom" mode to decelerate on the exit ramp and back on to surface streets.

[Shadow]

So, I put it into Eco mode (which still gives me more than enough acceleration to pull into traffic from the entrance lane) and just hold the "throttle" WFO till I reach my exit, at which point I thumb it back into "Custom" mode to decelerate on the exit ramp and back on to surface streets.

I guess that maybe WOT with a speed limiter is less efficient for long rides than moderating the throttle.

[gyrocyclist]

In any case, you can change from one mode to another very quickly while riding.

I don't believe you can change modes when your speed is above 50mph.

on 2014 SR, you have to drop to 60mph and be throttle neutral before a mode change will take.

2016 SR, same experience.

[togo]

So, I put it into Eco mode (which still gives me more than enough acceleration to pull into traffic from the entrance lane) and just hold the "throttle" WFO till I reach my exit, at which point I thumb it back into "Custom" mode to decelerate on the exit ramp and back on to surface streets.

I guess that maybe WOT with a speed limiter is less efficient for long rides than moderating the throttle.

Well, using a speed limiting mode will necessarily mean more and less thrust as you go up or down hill.  A throttle lock will hold the thrust steadier, but you might still have to adjust it if the hills are too steep.

[grmarks]

I only use custom mode with everything set to the max. Then I use self-restraint in the wet or if on a long ride.
ECO mode has no magic to it, if you don't put much power in, you can go further. I have done 200km on my 2015 SR in custom mode and self-restraint on the highway. Around town I can get 260km, you just have to go slow.
I like to know that I can have full power if something unexpected happens, and it always does sooner or later.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I ride my DSR in Custom mode in every weather condition, with 20% coasting regen and 100% brake regen.

Even in some very slippery rainy conditions, Eco mode does not seem necessary. BUT I ride with two crampbuster wide paddles on my throttle handgrip - this is how I control torque and smooth out the use of the throttle.

I had quite a few fishtail situations when riding my 2013 DS year-round in Seattle, so I can't say that a new rider will get the same result as I do now and a lot of it might be due to experience. But the crampbuster makes it very easy to tell where the throttle position is by feel and to reduce adjustments to whatever finesse is needed to merge in traffic.

I also use an Atlas throttle lock for highway operation - this maintains a certain amount of torque / current that is fairly effective at keeping my efficiency up.

[MrDude_1]

I just leave it all the way up and use my wrist as self-restraint.
The bike already has less power than the other bikes I ride, I see no need to handicap it more.

[ESokoloff]

In any case, you can change from one mode to another very quickly while riding.

I don't believe you can change modes when your speed is above 50mph.

on 2014 SR, you have to drop to 60mph and be throttle neutral before a mode change will take.

2016 SR, same experience.

I stand.... er sit corrected. 
60mph it is (2016 DSR).

[Shadow]

I stand.... er sit corrected. 
60mph it is (2016 DSR).

Under 60mph on my 2016 DSR. Mode changes are queued at 60mph indicated, but at 59mph indicated the new mode will activate. If I remember correctly...

[Chuck107]

I will have to try this. I have 100% on both regen and brake regen. Just got a 2016 sr last week. I get home from work (40 miles round trip) only have 30% or less battery. That’s going 50-70 mph. Does this sound right or is battery possibly bad. Was expecting to have more range. Worried if it gets cold might be cutting it close.

The best way I found to maximize range is to use custom mode.

100% Max Torque
0% Max Regen
50% Max Regen Brake (100%  can get even better range but I have found it's a little aggressive for me)

From there use your wrist to control energy use just like you suggested.  Name of the game is coast as much as possible and brake as little as possible.  If you do have to brake you  can pull the lever just a little and regen will engage but disk brakes will not.  Accelerating hard isn't so bad as long as you use all the momentum you gained from the energy use (i.e. don't accelerate hard then hit the brakes hard).  You will use slightly more energy if you accelerate hard but doing it a little bit won't make a significant difference in range.  High speed kills range more than anything.  For every little bit you reduce speed you will get a huge gain in range.

[Richard230]

I will have to try this. I have 100% on both regen and brake regen. Just got a 2016 sr last week. I get home from work (40 miles round trip) only have 30% or less battery. That’s going 50-70 mph. Does this sound right or is battery possibly bad. Was expecting to have more range. Worried if it gets cold might be cutting it close.

The best way I found to maximize range is to use custom mode.

100% Max Torque
0% Max Regen
50% Max Regen Brake (100%  can get even better range but I have found it's a little aggressive for me)

From there use your wrist to control energy use just like you suggested.  Name of the game is coast as much as possible and brake as little as possible.  If you do have to brake you  can pull the lever just a little and regen will engage but disk brakes will not.  Accelerating hard isn't so bad as long as you use all the momentum you gained from the energy use (i.e. don't accelerate hard then hit the brakes hard).  You will use slightly more energy if you accelerate hard but doing it a little bit won't make a significant difference in range.  High speed kills range more than anything.  For every little bit you reduce speed you will get a huge gain in range.

That doesn't sound too bad to me.  Your regen settings won't make much difference, maybe a 1 or 2% improvement in range and that is only if you spend a lot of time with the throttle closed or braking, which is why I prefer coasting with the throttle closed.  Expect the battery capacity to decline a bit as time marches on and recharge cycles accumulate.  Also, it appears (from my limited observations) to me that the computer needs to have the battery run down to near zero at least once before it starts providing really accurate guesses of battery pack capacity used.  That seemed to be the case with my 2014 S.  Once I ran it down to zero (not an easy thing to do should you live on a hill), the computer seemed to do a good job of providing the pack capacity and range estimates.

[Shadow]

I will have to try this. I have 100% on both regen and brake regen. Just got a 2016 sr last week. I get home from work (40 miles round trip) only have 30% or less battery. That’s going 50-70 mph. Does this sound right or is battery possibly bad. Was expecting to have more range. Worried if it gets cold might be cutting it close.

There's less overall range when going any faster than say 50mph (80kph) unless you have a full aerodynamic fairing. It's easy to relax and maintain 50mph with a cramp buster on the throttle grip, that helps to have constant power. If you want to do better than 1mi per percent on a ZF13.0 you'll have to try a full run going no faster than 50-52mph. I would expect 70mi or less total range from a ZF13.0 when traveling faster even only 62mph will use much more energy. You said up to 70mph which if I go 70mph sometimes depending on grade and environment could be a range of only 50mi from a full charge! At the very far end of extreme usage I've dumped a 12kWh charge on my ZF13.0 in 30mi... for science...!?