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[Mattbastard]

After troubleshooting the side stand sensor to no end with voltage dividing resistor circuits and metering the actual voltage through the sensor since I think that's what's causing my flickering red dash light, to learning that the MBB actually cuts current to the motor if you hit the gas too hard at low speeds, I'm axing the whole "mother hen" aspect of this bike and going old school.  Technically this was my plan all along, buy a donor bike and convert to an EV, I just now have the perfect donor since it already is an EV, just with too much safety crap on it to let me be in full control.

I realize that when Zero made this bike they need to design for all parameters of use.  If I hit the gas too much at low speeds and melt the motor, oh well...  I see that as an opportunity to upgrade the system! 

Currently deliberating how to use the key for powering up the system.  I think I'm just gonna use it to enable the DC-DC converter.  That should be a low current circuit.  I'll fuse it really low before I melt the key switch to see what happens. 

Also wondering how the BMS is gonna get by now.  Worst case, Thunderstruck has a good standalone BMS.  Or one of them eBay PCB ones. 

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

If you can contribute any material to or for http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual, other 2012 owners would probably benefit (however many there are, less than a thousand for sure).

[Mattbastard]

If you can contribute any material to or for http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual, other 2012 owners would probably benefit (however many there are, less than a thousand for sure).

I certainly can, and probably will also be able to going forward.  Who do I send new info to?

[winfried]

After troubleshooting the side stand sensor to no end with voltage dividing resistor circuits and metering the actual voltage through the sensor since I think that's what's causing my flickering red dash light, to learning that the MBB actually cuts current to the motor if you hit the gas too hard at low speeds, I'm axing the whole "mother hen" aspect of this bike and going old school.  Technically this was my plan all along, buy a donor bike and convert to an EV, I just now have the perfect donor since it already is an EV, just with too much safety crap on it to let me be in full control.

I realize that when Zero made this bike they need to design for all parameters of use.  If I hit the gas too much at low speeds and melt the motor, oh well...  I see that as an opportunity to upgrade the system! 

Currently deliberating how to use the key for powering up the system.  I think I'm just gonna use it to enable the DC-DC converter.  That should be a low current circuit.  I'll fuse it really low before I melt the key switch to see what happens. 

Also wondering how the BMS is gonna get by now.  Worst case, Thunderstruck has a good standalone BMS.  Or one of them eBay PCB ones.

I also have the flickering red dash light since 3 years, got somehow used to it... How did you find out that its the side stand ?
 Also my dealer couldnt find the cause... How can i test it ?

Gesendet von meinem S60 mit Tapatalk

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

If you can contribute any material to or for http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual, other 2012 owners would probably benefit (however many there are, less than a thousand for sure).

I certainly can, and probably will also be able to going forward.  Who do I send new info to?

My email is this username at gmail, but I've never had anyone follow through "sending" me information. Just post it to the forum if setting up a wiki account scares you off.

[Mattbastard]

I also have the flickering red dash light since 3 years, got somehow used to it... How did you find out that its the side stand ?
 Also my dealer couldnt find the cause... How can i test it ?

Gesendet von meinem S60 mit Tapatalk

I can't 100% conclude the flickering red dash light was caused by the kick stand other than it only happening with the kick stand was down.  Once kick stand went up the red light stayed off.  I also took the sensor off the frame and passed a strong magnet by it to replicate the kick stand operation. 

Personally I think the MBB is a glitchy piece of equipment on this bike and went in the trash.  I've already isolated the BMS down to only battery-specific wiring (which I'll illustrate later for those interested), and the only thing left is the "fuel gauge" function of the Koso multifunction gauge.  It operates based on a resistance variation with reference to ground.  100 ohms is full 57VDC, 0 ohms is empty 39VDC.  Worst case I'll just replace it with a 48V rated battery gauge. 

[Mattbastard]

My email is this username at gmail, but I've never had anyone follow through "sending" me information. Just post it to the forum if setting up a wiki account scares you off.

I'll just email my findings to you to add to the master service manual.  I'm not familiar with adding to Wiki's.