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It's pretty much a standard H4 motorcycle headlight solution with an of the shelf LSL urban headlight. Unplug from the wires, unscrew the old mounts and you are good to go. I cannot tell you 100% sure if the wires are long enough for a headlight that's farther out but even then it shouldn't be a big deal as long as you keep water proving in mind.

Interesting choice/recommendation!

CR4501: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/cr4501967teamhansen.htm

CR93: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/CR931962-63.html

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech.  Walt was really helpful.  He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment). 

There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that.  In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).

Interesting.  For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm  I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch.  A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)

Quote from: quixotic on May 28, 2016, 09:55:16 AM

So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech.  Walt was really helpful.  He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment). 

There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that.  In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).

Interesting.  For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm  I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch.  A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)

I'd be tempted, but unfortunately, the only dustbin that'll fit in my garage is the type you put dust in.   

Quote from: MrDude_1 on June 06, 2016, 07:42:33 PM

Quote from: quixotic on June 06, 2016, 04:05:51 AM

Quote from: MrDude_1 on June 05, 2016, 09:02:01 PM

Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.

I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.

I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.

So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)

yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.

Are there any legal stipulations about obliterating all the important writing on the steering head, though?...not to mention the stamped VIN number?

YES.
If you're doing it correctly, you shouldn't be effecting the VIN on the steering.
The stay should still bolt on, but the stay itself should be welded into one piece.

The "usual" way is a single two hole bracket welded to the steering head, and then the stay bolts to that.

As a lighter alternative to the two adjustable hooks I'm thinking you can use a metal band (gear clamp?), the heavy duty kind for securing plumbing? Just cut/drill a slot on the sides of the front piece of aluminum close to the end where it makes contact with the steering column, pass the metal band through there, and wrap around the steering column? Or instead of drilling, use a bolt like you have, but instead of sideways, have it vertical and use both ends of it (above and below the aluminum piece) to pull with one band each towards the steering column?

I'm thinking like these, but perhaps heavier duty, maybe a pair?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901|203626509

EDIT.  Now that I look at your photos, there might not be space for the bands on the rear side of the steering column...