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[Count_Hejnowski]

 Hey I'm  6'2", 200 lbs and can't get the front sag on the FXS to get anywhere close to the factory spec of 2.36" (60MM). I'm only getting like an 1" of sag. The preload is as loose as it gets-0 turns out which is how it comes from the factory.
I checked it and the rear shock (which was in spec) because I was getting a hash ride at speeds above 60-70 mph like the front was progressively bouncing up, not really confidence inspiring. Anyways I talked to about 3 different people at Zero and got the same "notunderwarrantytakeittothedealer" line- although some girl in engineering, Maria was kinda cute, or at least fun to talk to. She recommended calling Harlan at Hollywood electrics.
I'm having a hard time believing they would sell a bike that can't be put into spec with normal adjustment. Nonetheless i want to get this taken care of- either by new spring, or new preload spacer- I dunno.
 I've never really disassembled a cartridge fork- wondering if anybody had a similar problem or experience with this. Thanks.

[rayivers]

The thread below has some info:

http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5320.msg37671#msg37671

Ray

[PL3]

Same size & wt., I find the ride at most speeds a little harsh over sharp bumps.
The Zero rep told my dealer he was surprised as the bike leaves the factory set up for a 185# rider.

[MrDude_1]

This sounds horrible, but since theres no service manual..

Look up service manuals for Honda and older ducati models.. they can be found free online in PDF format, and they show how to service a showa fork.

if it was my bike, I would pull the fork apart and make sure theres no binding, no scuffs on the bushings, etc.
If everything looked good, I would call Factory Connection, and get a set of springs for my weight, and put it all back together.

if I saw any issues, I would still call Factory Connection, but I would ship the forks to them. I dont have any fork tools besides a fork seal seater.

[Count_Hejnowski]

This sounds horrible, but since theres no service manual..

Look up service manuals for Honda and older ducati models.. they can be found free online in PDF format, and they show how to service a showa fork.

if it was my bike, I would pull the fork apart and make sure theres no binding, no scuffs on the bushings, etc.
If everything looked good, I would call Factory Connection, and get a set of springs for my weight, and put it all back together.

if I saw any issues, I would still call Factory Connection, but I would ship the forks to them. I dont have any fork tools besides a fork seal seater.

Yeah I did a full rebuild with Race Tech gold valves/springs and new bushings/seals on my '86 honda interceptor. But this cartridge fork is a different beast...If any one wonders the axle is a 17mm Hex.

[Kocho]

I hadn't adjusted anything on my suspension het, so I decided to take a look. Like with your FXS, my SR front springs seem stiffer than intended. I am 200lb as I ride, maybe 205, and I don't think I'm compressing more than 1" in the front at the softest setting. So we can't decrease the preload any further and I think even us near 200lb riders we can't get the sag within specs. I don't know how lighter riders feel about that - they must be even farther off the ideal preload... I'll show this to my dealer when get there in the next week or two to see what he says.

That said, if I set the rebound and compression to the softest possible, I get a very plush ride. Too plush for my liking - the bike is floating up and down too much, makes me feel unsafe. If I set them to the hardest settings, the ride is much better controlled, but is too harsh over rough pavement areas. I'm still fiddling to see what I like, but with the poor roads in my area I will end-up on the softer side of things, especially in the rear.

Hey I'm  6'2", 200 lbs and can't get the front sag on the FXS to get anywhere close to the factory spec of 2.36" (60MM). I'm only getting like an 1" of sag. The preload is as loose as it gets-0 turns out which is how it comes from the factory.
I checked it and the rear shock (which was in spec) because I was getting a hash ride at speeds above 60-70 mph like the front was progressively bouncing up, not really confidence inspiring. Anyways I talked to about 3 different people at Zero and got the same "notunderwarrantytakeittothedealer" line- although some girl in engineering, Maria was kinda cute, or at least fun to talk to. She recommended calling Harlan at Hollywood electrics.
I'm having a hard time believing they would sell a bike that can't be put into spec with normal adjustment. Nonetheless i want to get this taken care of- either by new spring, or new preload spacer- I dunno.
 I've never really disassembled a cartridge fork- wondering if anybody had a similar problem or experience with this. Thanks.

[laramie LC4]

185lbs, very experienced dirt rider.

been messing with my new fxs as well. same symptoms, very hoppy over quick, sharp, road bumps, especially under hard accel. i have a stretch just outside my neighborhood that i have to ride the far side of the road. i have taken out several clicks of comp and dampening in the front, and added some in the back. this helped a bunch but it's still not right. the rear also seems very soft on comp as well. i assume it's the kick stand but i cant even hop off a curb without some nasty sounding clack of something hitting the ground. i think i'm going to take mine to my suspension guy on saturday and have him help me set-up the bike. i will report back what i find out. i know i will eventually go race tech gold's but would like to ride it as stock for a bit.

laters,

laramie 

[PL3]

Kocho
Please let me know what you end up with.
My S seems really harsh in normal street riding.

[Count_Hejnowski]

This is the preload spacer. Length is 8.718" I'm gonna either cut about 1" off or fab shorter ones so I can keep these stock ones. I'll let you guys know if that gets the preload into shape. From reading that other "forks way too stiff" post seems the measuring the oil level on these shocks is PITA- like all the internals have to be out or something. I wonder if there's just an oil volume measurement for these shocks?

[MrDude_1]

This is the preload spacer. Length is 8.718" I'm gonna either cut about 1" off or fab shorter ones so I can keep these stock ones. I'll let you guys know if that gets the preload into shape. From reading that other "forks way too stiff" post seems the measuring the oil level on these shocks is PITA- like all the internals have to be out or something. I wonder if there's just an oil volume measurement for these shocks?

before you cut a full inch off the spacer, measure the spring length.
You probably need to change springs. 1" is a ton of preload change.

[Count_Hejnowski]

This is the preload spacer. Length is 8.718" I'm gonna either cut about 1" off or fab shorter ones so I can keep these stock ones. I'll let you guys know if that gets the preload into shape. From reading that other "forks way too stiff" post seems the measuring the oil level on these shocks is PITA- like all the internals have to be out or something. I wonder if there's just an oil volume measurement for these shocks?

before you cut a full inch off the spacer, measure the spring length.
You probably need to change springs. 1" is a ton of preload change.

Yeah thanks I was watching some of Dave Moss's suspension vids on youtube and indeed 1" is a lot.
From what he was saying the preload adjuster on the cap only affects 8-12mm. When I rebuilt the old damper rod Showa forks on my VF, the Race Tech stuff said to cut the preload spacer so everything just reaches the top of the fork tube with the fork fully extended. These USD are different because everything is screwed together and connected through the cartridge/ rebound tube.

[Count_Hejnowski]

For anyone interested, I took measurements to the disassembled fork to find the set length and preload that the stock spacer has. I came up with a figure of 15mm preload that the forks have without any added from the adjuster at the top.This is basically how the bike arrives stock. This is a normal for street bikes but probably is a little much for a supermoto style fork with more fork travel. My aim was for 5mm of preload. Instead of cutting down the stock spacers, I bought new aluminum tubing - 1.25" OD, 1.18" ID, .035" wall thickness. This was flow rated tubing with no seam, and fit perfectly into the plastic spacer end caps that bookend the preload spacer. I have access to a toolroom lathe and a mill, so I was able to fab new ones that were shorter by about 10mm or .4". I added the holes for the spring compressor that is needed to get the fork cap off/on and rebound damper rod out. I put everything back together and added fork oil to the specs of 141 mm from outer tube (spring removed) and amount is 440±2.5 cc. I've been riding it around (with stock rebound and compression settings) and it doesn't pack at high speeds over bumps anymore. I put a zip tie on the stanchion to get an idea of fork travel and I haven't got even close to bottoming out yet- although I haven't hit any NYC death potholes.

[MrDude_1]

For anyone interested, I took measurements to the disassembled fork to find the set length and preload that the stock spacer has. I came up with a figure of 15mm preload that the forks have without any added from the adjuster at the top.This is basically how the bike arrives stock. This is a normal for street bikes but probably is a little much for a supermoto style fork with more fork travel. My aim was for 5mm of preload. Instead of cutting down the stock spacers, I bought new aluminum tubing - 1.25" OD, 1.18" ID, .035" wall thickness. This was flow rated tubing with no seam, and fit perfectly into the plastic spacer end caps that bookend the preload spacer. I have access to a toolroom lathe and a mill, so I was able to fab new ones that were shorter by about 10mm or .4". I added the holes for the spring compressor that is needed to get the fork cap off/on and rebound damper rod out. I put everything back together and added fork oil to the specs of 141 mm from outer tube (spring removed) and amount is 440±2.5 cc. I've been riding it around (with stock rebound and compression settings) and it doesn't pack at high speeds over bumps anymore. I put a zip tie on the stanchion to get an idea of fork travel and I haven't got even close to bottoming out yet- although I haven't hit any NYC death potholes.

out of curiosity... With your riding gear on, what do you weigh?

[Count_Hejnowski]

Prob  little over 200 lbs.

[Kocho]

I did not talk with my dealership - I really see no point discussing it with them, since the suspension is what it is. I'm sure Zero is aware of the settings. I might still mention it to the dealer if I drive by to pick-up some tools from them. They should probably report it to Zero, but I don't want them messing with my suspension.

I did end-up with adjustments that I think are quite satisfactory for me. Unfortunately, I lost track of the # of clicks on each setting. I may go check on that soon, but right now I do not know. What matters is that I'm quite happy with the setup at up to below highway speeds. At high speed I think the shocks do not react fast enough and bumps can be a bit harsh, but not terrible.

I'd be interested to reduce the preload on the front even further if I ever get to take the forks apart, but that would be a winter project if I even get to it.

Kocho
Please let me know what you end up with.
My S seems really harsh in normal street riding.