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[Kocho]

Can someone measure from the top of the lens on the headlight to the top of the screen (with and without the extension in the up position). Also, how wide is it at the widest point? Thanks!

[Primus]

FYI I contacted zero for the dimensions of the screen and got the following response:

"The new Touring Screen (10--8058) is 17" x 17" with a bottom taper of 4".  The spoiler is 12" x 3 1/2".  It's smaller than your current screen but the air foil is supposed to push the air up and over you.  It's also adjustable."

I'm currently using the screen from China (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231923751389) but since I'm 6'3" its not quite tall enough.  Its still hard to compare them since one has the spoiler, also they are mounted differently so that could affect the height as well.

Could someone with the touring screen measure from the top of the spoiler to some fixed location?  Maybe the headlight, or whatever makes sense?

[Shadow]

The spoiler doesn't extend up so much as out and away to change angle of deflection, about 16+3/4" from the lowest edge of the touring screen FYI.

[Kocho]

Thanks! I think I'll stick with the cheap screen that I have for now - doesn't look like the Zero touring screen will be big enough for me (it is an inch or two smaller than the screen I have now, which is too small already). The spoiler might make a difference though. Hopefully my local dealer will get one installed on their demo bikes for me to try. Otherwise, I might need to get something like 25" tall screen to get head protection and wider too for shoulder protection. Right now the bike is just not pleasant on the highway and unfortunately I have a few miles of that on my commute. 

The spoiler doesn't extend up so much as out and away to change angle of deflection, about 16+3/4" from the lowest edge of the touring screen FYI.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

FWIW, the main thing about a spoiler is that it softens the boundary layer above and behind the shield. I may downgrade my spoiler for the Parabellum because I chose it for the Zero Commuter Screen where I needed more deflection, and now I just need a slight softening and want to see over the screen again.

[DPsSRnSD]

I got this last night and quickly swapped out my commuter screen  This morning I noticed reflections from the headlight, which the instructions stipulated to avoid. What have others done about this - shallower angle? I installed it fairly upright like I did with my commuter screen.

[DPsSRnSD]

I played with angles tonight and came to the conclusion that some reflection is unavoidable. The best I could do was minimize it when I'm in my most frequent riding positions. I left the screen in a shallower angle than I set last night; I'll see how that works for airflow tomorrow. With the steep angle, it was obvious how effective the touring screen is compared to the commuter screen. With the commuter screen, the wind hit my head and arms with about the same force. With the touring screen, my head is in quiet air but my arms are still in turbulent air. I felt more relaxed. Too bad the touring screen didn't come out a few months sooner because I'm sure I would have bought it with my bike instead of the commuter screen.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'm glad you are able to get it working for you, but I'm not sure why it's called a touring screen.

One suggestion is to buy and use longer MRA mounting stalks that attach around the handlebars themselves instead of the risers. This allows much more freedom to position any screen so that it doesn't catch a headlamp reflection, and can place it up higher where it can smoothly push air over your helmet.

E.g. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mounting-kit-long-kit-for-mra-naked-bike-windscreens-for-suzuki-sv650 which lists compatible windscreens as well.

[DPsSRnSD]

Disappointingly, my average Wh/mi for the week is up after just 1-1/2 days with the touring screen in place of my commuter screen. I hope it's only because I seem to go faster before I roll off the throttle because I no longer have wind on my helmet to cue me to my speed. I'll have to be more careful to make a valid comparison.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Disappointingly, my average Wh/mi for the week is up after just 1-1/2 days with the touring screen in place of my commuter screen. I hope it's only because I seem to go faster before I roll off the throttle because I no longer have wind on my helmet to cue me to my speed. I'll have to be more careful to make a valid comparison.

If it makes you feel any better, this happens to me even with the Parabellum windscreen I had and the dustbin fairing! With the dustbin, I just had (past tense since my commute just got pretty short) a very difficult time not riding around at 75-80mph at the same Wh/mile because I don't need any more efficiency daily than that to get to and from work!

I also deal with a lot of shifting winds, too, which makes reliable measurements difficult. So I wind up using my throttle lock and seeing what average speed it achieves over a long period.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Ultimately, the term "mechanical sympathy" is very useful for understanding how a Zero is different from regular bikes - there's no grunt or strain that is anything you can feel unless it's the belt. So, any drag reduction just makes the bike super-relaxed compared to before and you're compelled to make it work just as much as before.

[DPsSRnSD]

Ultimately, the term "mechanical sympathy" is very useful for understanding how a Zero is different from regular bikes - there's no grunt or strain that is anything you can feel unless it's the belt. So, any drag reduction just makes the bike super-relaxed compared to before and you're compelled to make it work just as much as before.

Yeah, my seat of the pants feeling is that the bike is accelerating with less effort, as if I have a tail wind. So I might be killing any gain in efficiency with more speed before I catch myself.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Ultimately, the term "mechanical sympathy" is very useful for understanding how a Zero is different from regular bikes - there's no grunt or strain that is anything you can feel unless it's the belt. So, any drag reduction just makes the bike super-relaxed compared to before and you're compelled to make it work just as much as before.

Yeah, my seat of the pants feeling is that the bike is accelerating with less effort, as if I have a tail wind. So I might be killing any gain in efficiency with more speed before I catch myself.

Well, you can always use Eco mode or set Custom mode to a specific speed limit and just peg the throttle to see where the efficiency figures land.

[originalspacerob]

Wanted to add to everyones observations with the touring screen. I just installed the screen a week ago on my 2017 DSR. I am 6'1"   With the spoiler all the way up the wind on the highway goes above my helmet. I don't get as much on my chest. I did notice a lot more wind noise with the screen however especially with the spoiler up. With the spoiler down its quieter. My kWh used is down from 150 to 110 on the highway. Overall in the last week I have noticed I used 3-5% less battery on the highway and about 10% less on the back roads. I usually get home after work with 85 miles remaining for range and last week I was getting about 105.
    Like others have noted. It does cut thru the air better especially at speed and you will tend to ride faster. I usually run it in Eco mode commuting and that is where my numbers are based. A few days last week I ran in custom on the highway with 30% torque max speed of 106 and 100% regen. Any speed above 50 and you notice its much nicer with the screen. I would love to try the longer mounts to push the screen out more to get it a little straighter and see if it will quiet the noise down.


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[DPsSRnSD]

I did notice a lot more wind noise with the screen however especially with the spoiler up. With the spoiler down its quieter.

I would love to try the longer mounts to push the screen out more to get it a little straighter and see if it will quiet the noise down.

I tried two angles on the touring screen; one where the stock bars were pushed forward until the rubber cap touched the mounting clamp and the other where there was about a 1/2" between the rubber cap and the mounting clamp. In both cases the bottom of the screen was nearly touching the headlamp housing. The first configuration left the screen as upright as possible with the supplied hardware and didn't appreciably increase noise over my commuter screen. The second configuration gave the screen more back-sweep but I couldn't leave the airfoil in the top three positions because of the noise.