ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Tech => Parts, Mods And Hacks => Topic started by: laramie LC4 on November 15, 2016, 05:48:19 AM
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i have access to 2 speed chargers and want to be able to race with 1 battery out, while the other is being charged by both. what i don't want to do is pay Zero $240 for theirs... LINKY. (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5) i already paid the $140 for the battery adapter and don't want to donate anymore.
someone has got to know how to source and build one of these for much cheaper.
beers/booze/whatever tickles your funny bone within reason, are being offered as a reward....whatcha got?
thanks,
laramie ;)
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They are pretty easy to make. There is another thread here that describes it. Only correction to that thread, is that you don't need the longer communication pins -- the normal one is the right length, at least on the 2016. Too long and the data pin connects before ground. If you need more details, I can look up the specific part numbers when I get home. You have a 2013 or newer, right?
Here is the other thread: http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5626 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5626)
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2016
thanks,
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I added a section to the unofficial manual with the part numbers, etc. Let me know if you need photos too.
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charger_Y-Cable (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charger_Y-Cable)
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I added a section to the unofficial manual with the part numbers, etc. Let me know if you need photos too.
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charger_Y-Cable (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charger_Y-Cable)
Nice work, especially sourcing part numbers! Thank you.
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dude you rock. i promised beer, booze, or whatever. send me a PM with an email for pay-pal or an address and i will put a package in the mail.
thanks,
laramie ;)
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dude you rock. i promised beer, booze, or whatever. send me a PM with an email for pay-pal or an address and i will put a package in the mail.
thanks,
laramie ;)
Just tell us if you make a cable that works. Feel free to ask any questions while you're building yours.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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you mention a correction to the parts due to an incorrect "pin."
did you correct that in your post to the unofficial manual?
is this the correct parts list?
(3) Anderson Power Products SBS75X connectors, Brown. (Mouser PN 879-SBS75XBRN-BK) (Color matters, since it also reflects the voltage and is keyed.)
(4) Anderson Power Products SBS50 #10 AWG connectors (Mouser PN 879-1339G3-BK)
(6) Anderson Power Products SBS50 #6 AWG connectors (Mouser PN 879-1339G2-BK)
(4) Anderson Power Products SBS75X aux socket connector (Mouser PN 879-PM16S1416S32)
(2) Anderson Power Products SBS75X aux pin connector, standard sequence (Mouser PN 879-PM16P1416S30)
also, wire is not on that list? what wire do you recommend?
thanks,
laramie ;)
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Yes, that is the parts list that of what I actually used in my cable. I also purchased the longer pins and already had a variety of Anderson primary contacts in my toolbox.
PM16P1416S30 is the standard sequence pin, which is also what is in the DeltaQ connector. I find it works fine. However, if one tries to crimp two cables into that pin, the insulation will be too fat to seat properly in the connector. I suspect that is what happened to LiveAndLetDrive, who moved to the longer pre-mate sequence pin PM16P1416A30. (The data sheet is here: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/22/andersonpowerproducts_DS-SBS(4)-355281.pdf) (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/22/andersonpowerproducts_DS-SBS(4)-355281.pdf))
I ended up making a couple cables -- I made a hermaphroditic extension cable (pins and sockets on both ends wired through) using red/black #6 welding wire (from https://powerwerx.com/welding-cable-epdm (https://powerwerx.com/welding-cable-epdm)), and some smaller stranded wires I had. This was intended to let me leave the DeltaQ's mounted out of the way; but this didn't work since they appear to require a power cycle between every charge, or they won't start. So, don't waste your time on that; I ended up putting the wire/connectors into PP75 housings for my other DC stuff.
For the Y-Cable, I made a 3 to 1, using 1 ft pieces of #10 stranded extension cord, using the green conductor (stripped, strands removed to fit or split into two depending on the end, and heat shrinked) for the signal pin. Three #10's fit perfectly into the #6 connector. If you are only going to make a 2 to 1, you could use slightly thicker wire, or move down to a smaller pin (1339G5-BK is for #8). The #10 is larger than what is on the DeltaQ already, so that's why I didn't go larger. Make sure it's large enough if you are going to use a larger charger. Anderson also has reducing bushings. Make sure you get a solid crimp. I use a hydraulic crimper, but of course the official Anderson tool is preferred. Don't use solid wire. Don't use wire with too few strands either; it needs to be flexible. If you want the crimp vs solder debate, go to the other thread. :) Straight through on the power polarity -- Plus to Plus to Plus; and Minus to Minus to Minus.
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Charger facing end: (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/e57a82e5c425090e5fbba8d9e45a59cc.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/53ec064cc01dadeb2b4ae3cced5c8d12.jpg)
Bike-facing end: (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/668a7ffcfd780879fb98fa76ea029662.jpg)
Note that I also wire tied each bundle together to get a better strain relief. Anderson sells a matching strain relief as well but I want to say it was back ordered at the time... Or I was just a dummy and didn't get it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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tips on the crimping with a hammer crimper?
i bought 10ft. of 10/3 stranded and 2x's the parts list just in case. worst case i have spares, best case i can sell 1 and recover my cost. ;D
thanks,
laramie ;)