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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: gingerjet on May 30, 2016, 01:09:19 PM
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Since I've moved a half dozen times since i owned my last motorcycle - I have long donated or simply thrown out all my motorcycle specific tools and parts. So I'm looking to stock up again.
I'm curious what you keep on hand and/or take with you on the road?
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Well the good/bad news is you don't need/can't fix many tools on a Zero. Tire repair patch up kit is always nice. Allen wrench set and some spare fuses and bulbs. The BMS or MMB or motor or battery goes out the best tool is a phone to call for help. Watch your belt and get it changed if you see any punctures or rips there is a lot of torque on it and only a belt in good condition can take the stress. Most of the time though its just turn the key twist the throttle and go no worries.
Good luck because that's always helpful too.
Cheers
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Tire repair patch up kit is always nice.
Is there a tube in there?
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Most motorcycles are tubeless.
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When I got new tires they put some tubes in mine but from the factory no I'm pretty sure they are tubeless. The sticky cord plugs work for most people in a pinch. The tubes have worked well for me almost no air loss over months of riding or sitting.
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DS and FX tires before 2015 models are tubed. All other Zero models after 2012 are tubeless.
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The owner's manual lists torque specifications in both lb-ft and Nm. Most (all?) Fasteners are metric. Looking at Precision Instruments torque wrenches that are right-hand thread and available in kg-cm, lb-ft, Nm, oz-in markings.
I also work on a Subaru car (metric), to be replaced by a Tesla (metric...?) soon. I may occasionally do some bicycle repair.
Did Zero spec the torque primarily in lb-ft or in Nm? Should I get torque wrenches with lb-ft markings or with Nm markings?
The torque wrenches I am looking at are clockwise-only operation. Are there any counterclockwise threads on the Zero?
The national sales manager for Precision Instruments suggests to me their C2FR50F (markings down to 8lb-ft) and C2FR100F 3/8" drive torque wrenches to cover the range of torque specs based on the Zero 2016 DSR owner's manual. These wrenches are also available in equivalent units with Nm markings.
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The owner's manual lists torque specifications in both lb-ft and Nm. Most (all?) Fasteners are metric. Looking at Precision Instruments torque wrenches that are right-hand thread and available in kg-cm, lb-ft, Nm, oz-in markings.
I also work on a Subaru car (metric), to be replaced by a Tesla (metric...?) soon. I may occasionally do some bicycle repair.
Did Zero spec the torque primarily in lb-ft or in Nm? Should I get torque wrenches with lb-ft markings or with Nm markings?
The torque wrenches I am looking at are clockwise-only operation. Are there any counterclockwise threads on the Zero?
The national sales manager for Precision Instruments suggests to me their C2FR50F (markings down to 8lb-ft) and C2FR100F 3/8" drive torque wrenches to cover the range of torque specs based on the Zero 2016 DSR owner's manual. These wrenches are also available in equivalent units with Nm markings.
to be honest, there are not a lot of torque critical fasteners on a zero.
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to be honest, there are not a lot of torque critical fasteners on a zero.
Okay. When I did repair work on my Subaru car, I figure if I mess something up it is just going to stop moving forward or I'll lose a wheel (and hey I've got 3 more of those on the ground!) I feel differently about a 2-wheeled machine than you at this point, because I'm not comfortable of the idea of just the "feel" of how tight a fastener should be.
Is there some reason to buy torque wrenches rated in LbFt (instead of Nm) for new products such as the Zero Motorcycles bikes? Are the bikes mostly metric fasteners and yet still designed and rated in LbFt with a convenience conversion to Nm?
It's confusing to me and yes I understand the Zero is relatively low maintenance but I'm looking for experience *using* torque wrenches. Not-using torque wrenches is great but not what I'm asking about, just to be clear, and sorry if I was a bit daft in my previous question!
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Read p. 5.5 in the Zero factory owner's manual - lists torque in both lb per ft and Nm. Range is from 8 to 75lbft. Just buy a pair of torque wrenches to cover this range and be done with it. In the US most torque wrenches I've seen have scales in both Nm and lbft, so I can use whichever I feel more comfortable with. So it really does not matter.
I've had plenty of bolts stripped by "professionals" using the wrong torque in repair shops on my cars in the past. While I do hand-feel things a lot, having a torque wrench takes the guess-work out of it.
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What do the belts cost? I'm sure it's critical to have a spare while on the road. My dealer is 2-hr drive away.
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What do the belts cost? I'm sure it's critical to have a spare while on the road. My dealer is 2-hr drive away.
I just paid $93 after tax yesterday for a spare belt at my local dealer. I definitely recommend having a spare.
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Wikified (please improve): http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Tools (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Tools)
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Found an example of the dial for one of the wrenches I'm looking into:
(( IMAGE DELETED ))
So I was confused thinking there's no conversion chart handy on the wrench. The unit is for the dial on the wrench. Unlike the micrometer types there's only one unit on the dial but a chart is there for reference.
Okay here's the Precision Instruments C2FR50F and C2FR100F:
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This may or may not be appropriate. Mods, feel free to give me a ModSmack if not.
Kickstarter has this: T-Ratchet Multi-Tool & Torque travel Extension (http://kck.st/29MYEX5). Handles 2-8 NM and fits in a large-ish pen slot.
It will be a while before delivery, but it seems small enough to store on your Zero. I joined in as a backer on this one as I'm going to use it for... other things. I have no financial stake. Usual Kickstarter caveats apply (no guarantees, delays are inevitable, yada yada yada).
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Kickstarter fund raisers are not real products i.e. Skully just went under and will not deliver on many offers to back the AR1 helmet. Looks neat, anyways. Under 10 lb-ft the options for a partial or fully releasing torque wrench are limited, most are dial based.
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How about spanner wrench for the rear suspension preload adjustment? Does anyone know the proper diameter? I sure would like to change that: for 2-up riding or for carrying a load, like a 50lb inflatable SUP bag ...
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Inflating SUP with a compressor would be nice too. What is the most substantial compressor that would run off of the accessory circuit connector(s)?
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What do the belts cost? I'm sure it's critical to have a spare while on the road. My dealer is 2-hr drive away.
Doesn't the frame have to be dis-assembled in order to replace a belt?
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What do the belts cost? I'm sure it's critical to have a spare while on the road. My dealer is 2-hr drive away.
Doesn't the frame have to be dis-assembled in order to replace a belt?
Yes. But if you want to minimize down time I still highly recommend having a spare so you don't have to wait in the event the dealer doesn't have one in stock or you have to go to a non Zero shop to have them replace. If you have a belt any motorcycle shop can install the belt.
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When adjusting belt an alignment tool like this is a big help. It's a little tricky cause the back of the pulley has some ribs cast in, just bridge them. I put it on top and it barely clears belt guard. Used a flashlight to see in there. Don't spin the wheel while it's on there. Just cause there's marks on the swingarm doesn't mean they're exact. While your at it it wouldn't hurt to remove the adjuster bolts from the swingarm and coat the threads with some anti seize compound (there did appear to be some on bolts but I wanted to be sure) Just jack up the bike, Support tire with wood or similar, remove axle nut. You should now be able to slide the axle right out and access the adjuster bolts 13mm. The reason I added this was Ive seen lots of mx bikes especially KTMs, seizing their bolts which then can break off in the arm. You DONT want this to happen! It's a royal PITA even if you're a fastener removal specialist. A few extra steps will pay off and keep you on the road.
http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=Motion-Pro-Chain-Alignment-Tool&cc=us&adpos=1o3&creative=93575775025&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-CHAIN-ALIGN&gclid=CNm4iomH5c4CFdgYgQodCSwMOA (http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=Motion-Pro-Chain-Alignment-Tool&cc=us&adpos=1o3&creative=93575775025&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-CHAIN-ALIGN&gclid=CNm4iomH5c4CFdgYgQodCSwMOA)
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This lift is the business for adjusting belt etc. You can adjust the height for almost any bike.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/28665/i/msr-pro-lift-stand (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/28665/i/msr-pro-lift-stand)