ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Farfle on March 01, 2015, 05:43:31 AM
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Heya all, long time poster on the sphere, Elmoto etc...
Anywho, I just took delivery of a '15 3 brick DS, and I have a looong list of mods and fixes to do. In the interest of spreading the knowledge on how these bikes go together (as well as general reference) ill be posting up some guides here.
Hey, there is high voltage here!
Unplug the bike from the wall, key the bike off, and leave it that way. The MBB (main bike board) seems to leave the contactors on at random leaving things live. Luckily zero runs a less-than-lethal battery pack voltage, if you lick your fingers and touch full pack voltage, its gonna let you know you did it, but your not gonna die. That being said, if you touch any of the pack positive and negative wires, you are gonna get an immense arc flash and burn the crap outta yourself, spray molten copper everywhere and generally have a bad time.
Safety rant over. This post will be about replacing the onboard charger:
Mine had a bad one from the factory, and they were being slow to get me in to fix it, so here is how you do it:
Start by pulling the three little hex bolts (3mm?) from the side panels (BTW everything on the zero is metric thank god)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8584/16683209241_80af42c72f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqeNSD)20150228_133825 (https://flic.kr/p/rqeNSD) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/16658610596_74b39b6755_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Jy5)20150228_133819 (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Jy5) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/16064609563_aec3e35b14_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtzjJX)20150228_133833 (https://flic.kr/p/qtzjJX) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Next, pull the front body panel (I forgot to take pictures of this, its just a few small screws)
Then, pull the skidpan. The DS has an aluminum one, I think the one on the S and SR are plastic, but not sure.
Just a handful of easy to find bolts:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/16658660376_4cbf23e3d8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Zmm)photo (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Zmm) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
popping the seat off also makes things easier. Its the two giant Torx bolts on the frame at the back (T-45?)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/16477276437_55e1d4fef0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r73me4)20150228_133810 (https://flic.kr/p/r73me4) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/16477332967_2935233b94_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r73D2H)photo (https://flic.kr/p/r73D2H) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Next, you will want to remove the wiring from the bike side of things. There are three plugs, one on the AC end of things that's bolted to the bike, (your charge plug) the comm connector (enable signal, can comms etc...) and one plug on the DC side that goes up to the charge wiring harness.
The comms plug just has a tab, pull that one out.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/16684597385_63c65fe598_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqmVwa)photo (https://flic.kr/p/rqmVwa) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Both of the other plugs are a major pain in the ass.
Starting with the DC plug:
The plug looks like an Anderson SBS 50, but it seems to be a narrower pin pitch with no center data pin set.
Anywho, the DC plug is located in front of the motor against the back side of the battery on the bike's right. They are tucked up between the battery and a frame member, so cut the zip ties (Including the zip tie holding the plugs together) and pull the push on zip tie mount things on the lower half of the cable going to the charger.
Pull down on the charger side of the connector from the bottom while pulling up on the top connector. Sometimes this requires a flesh donation to the motor, so covering the motor with a rag would be smart.
Pull the terminals out of the plug housing, (Google Anderson connector disassembly if you are unfamiliar) and pull it down thru the hole between the motor and frame.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8584/16477328277_3b0db512fb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r73BCR)photo (https://flic.kr/p/r73BCR) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8639/16064658273_cd69dfe91b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtzzdM)photo (https://flic.kr/p/qtzzdM) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Next, the AC plug. It loops up under the seat and is zip tied on if a handful of places, there is two small bolts on the backside, they are a pain to get to, so get a decent set of hex drivers with handles.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/16683261981_50e15161d6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqf5xX)photo (https://flic.kr/p/rqf5xX) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8606/16684554475_909608ed7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGLk)20150228_133913 (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGLk) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
There is a fuseholder plug thing that connects the ground to who-knows-where, you have to squeeze some tabs to get the green locking piece out, then more tabs to get the plug apart.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8654/16497211600_d09e811b26_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r8NwfL)photo (https://flic.kr/p/r8NwfL) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Then, once the cables are out, the charger just has six bolts on the tabs holding it up.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/16062264114_f6d482cb26_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtniwb)photo (https://flic.kr/p/qtniwb) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8676/16658657626_ca25111c34_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ro4YwW)photo (https://flic.kr/p/ro4YwW) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. I extended the DC wires on my replacement calex/greenwattpower charger, and put the plug set sideways, and up higher to make it easier to get at.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8567/16684554365_dc1b277e84_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGJr)20150228_145637 (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGJr) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8579/16684554385_e4ed24c618_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGJM)20150228_145626 (https://flic.kr/p/rqmGJM) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
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Could you host those images somewhere which allow you to set a max width of no more than 550 - 600px wide when displaying in a forum?
I use flickr for this since it is free and you simply copy and paste the code.
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Could you host those images somewhere which allow you to set a max width of no more than 550 - 600px wide when displaying in a forum?
I use flickr for this since it is free and you simply copy and paste the code.
Holy cow those didnt scale right. Will fix asap.
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G L A D T O S E E Y O U H E R E F A R F L E
:P
Yes Burton is right! please adjust these images.. we dont all have a 4K monitor like you man!
So you are about to modify the original cahrger of your new 2015 Zero right?
I did that on my 2012 with 6.6kW that fit on a size of a box of shoes and that connect J1772.
I have a friend who just bought a 2014 S and that will add 2 x 3kW ESP 120 server power supply to get 6kW of charging power.
So Me, Burton and you seem to be the pioneer of compact fast charging Zero..
Keep us updated Farfle!
Doc
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My charger will be a bit more crude, but equally as powerful. :). followup on that in a later post in this thread.
Anywho, the next mod will be:
Installing a cycle analyst!!
CA's are an awesome dashboard, and being able to know pack voltage/amperage etc... will be very handy for later mods.
This post will be mainly for the groundwork of installing the shunt for the CA, with the rest of the install when I get mine in the mail.
Start by pulling the seat, under there is an EMC shroud. Two small phillips screws and it lifts back. the EMC shroud should be re-installed at the end if possible. (the Sevcon is an incredibly noisy thing, and disrupts things like charger and SOC comms)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8663/16683241361_fa654ef960_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqeYqr)photo (https://flic.kr/p/rqeYqr) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8608/16658643196_7f13628fd0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Uf9)photo (https://flic.kr/p/ro4Uf9) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Next, check the controllers main positive and main negative for voltage. The MBB is sometimes forgetful of opening contactors, and seems to leave things live at random.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8599/16062255924_efa986d329_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtng5Y)photo (https://flic.kr/p/qtng5Y) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
After your voltage has gone to sub-10v then pull the negative wire (13mm?) this is where we will install the shunt.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8572/16684585135_38147849d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqmRSX)photo (https://flic.kr/p/rqmRSX) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Make a short extension wire ~5". The sevcon really only needs 2AWG for this short of a run, I had to improvise and stuffed 10awg bare wires into 2awg terminals until it wouldn't take anymore:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8571/16683559582_7ec0711f19_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rqgB21)photo (https://flic.kr/p/rqgB21) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/16477291707_7f51650a5a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r73qLk)photo (https://flic.kr/p/r73qLk) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Bolt your extension on behind the controller where it can tuck down under seat level, then bolt one end to your shunt, and your pack negative to the other. (The pack negative on my bike gained about 12" of free play after cutting the zip tie holding it to the cross-beam behind the battery)
After its bolted in, I gave mine a hefty wrapping of self-fusing silicone tape. Its thick, stretchy and permanently fuses into one piece after a few seconds.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-Black-1208952/100206050 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-Black-1208952/100206050)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8641/16062972604_343c4b7743_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtqW8w)20150223_164607 (https://flic.kr/p/qtqW8w) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8655/16499162359_7f8bea4395_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r8Yw9x)20150223_164637 (https://flic.kr/p/r8Yw9x) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
I got lazy and just tucked the EMC shroud back between the two bolts. no ill effects so far.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8583/16497903510_c28044e75f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r8S4Wf)20150223_164628 (https://flic.kr/p/r8S4Wf) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
Throw the seat back on and part one is complete.
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Curious - what info does the Cycle Analyst provide that the 2015 DS dash doesn't?
I installed a Cycle Analyst on my Vectrix because the original dash doesn't offer any info about voltage, kWh, etc., but my new '15 SR has all that information in the stock dash with the touch of a button.
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Thanks for those smaller photos, big improvement.
looking forward to your charger mod / replacement.
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I think the CA allows you to dump logs of your trip for graphing oobflyer. But I am sure Farfle will get back to you on the change ;)
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I love this thread! Thanks for the clear explanations and photographs!
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Then, once the cables are out, the charger just has six bolts on the tabs holding it up.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/16062264114_f6d482cb26_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qtniwb)photo (https://flic.kr/p/qtniwb) by edwards8899 (https://www.flickr.com/people/130885489@N04/), on Flickr
So I can use a Harley style rail lift, and not crush the charger? Or not? I have an SR, do I need to worry about the plastic bottom pan?
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So I can use a Harley style rail lift, and not crush the charger? Or not? I have an SR, do I need to worry about the plastic bottom pan?
You should have no problem lifting it with a belly pan jack, the chargers are really tough. They have a 3mm aluminum case and are filled with a tough potting compound. The poly skidpan mak get a little chewed, but you wont hurt the charger. By the way, you can buy replecement chargers from the manufacturer here :
http://www.greenwattpower.com/1300evc.html (http://www.greenwattpower.com/1300evc.html)
And thanks guys! My CA wont be in till monday, so will update the post then. Later down the road there will be a 17" wheel install, Bad-boy charger build, a monolith opening/ 4th module install and a second controller install post.
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Nice to see a double controller bike out there soon, I'm jealous, should be wicked fast which are you going to piggyback?
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Nice to see a double controller bike out there soon, I'm jealous, should be wicked fast which are you going to piggyback?
Will go to dual size fours. Possobly an atf cooled motor aswell. 880 phase amps and ~90hp s pretty awesome.
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I could imagine that sr getting up and boogieing with my fx off the line. Impressive for a bike that has almost 100 extra lbs!!!!
I'll be watching the upgrades! I want to see the size 4s in action so I can be convinced to do it to my go cart, or the fx that I just crashed, all taken apart calling my name, I miss my race bike
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Will go to dual size fours. Possobly an atf cooled motor aswell. 880 phase amps and ~90hp s pretty awesome.
Love the ATF idea. If you are going down that route, try this:
https://rnmentropy.wordpress.com/2014/02/26/oil-cooling-with-nanofluids/ (https://rnmentropy.wordpress.com/2014/02/26/oil-cooling-with-nanofluids/)
I think this oil is even better than ATF:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=25&pcid=18 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=25&pcid=18)
If you try this, tell me how it works out.
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Nice to see a double controller bike out there soon, I'm jealous, should be wicked fast which are you going to piggyback?
Will go to dual size fours. Possobly an atf cooled motor aswell. 880 phase amps and ~90hp s pretty awesome.
Wouldn't a motor filled with oil run hotter and be less efficient if it was pushing that oil around? Plus, oil is not a very efficient cooling fluid. I would think that a motor like the Z-force type would be much better cooled if it could be surrounded by a water jacket with the anti-freeze/water mixture cooled by a normal radiator. (You probably wouldn't need a fan, but would need a small electric motor to circulate the coolant.)
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I rather have nothing conductive around the motors, they dislike water enough as it... ::)
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Wouldn't a motor filled with oil run hotter and be less efficient if it was pushing that oil around? Plus, oil is not a very efficient cooling fluid. I would think that a motor like the Z-force type would be much better cooled if it could be surrounded by a water jacket with the anti-freeze/water mixture cooled by a normal radiator. (You probably wouldn't need a fan, but would need a small electric motor to circulate the coolant.)
Run hotter, no, the opposite.
Less efficient, yes, by a very small margin.
Internal oil cooling in present in some of the most power dense motors, like Mission and Rimac motors.
Less efficiency would come from oil friction inside the motor, which only depends on the "smoothness" of the rotor.
Example of smooth:
http://remyinc.com/docs/HVH410R2.pdf (http://remyinc.com/docs/HVH410R2.pdf)
Not smooth:
http://www.ewh.ieee.org/soc/es/Nov1997/09/B_8POL1.JPG (http://www.ewh.ieee.org/soc/es/Nov1997/09/B_8POL1.JPG)
Why internal oil cooling instead of water jacket? Shorter thermal path and the possibility to effectively cool the rotor.
PS- Rimac motors use both, internal oil cooling AND water jacket
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The zero motor is not limited by stator heat, its temp cutoff is limited by rotor heat (like a 60C deltaT stator to rotor iirc) . And that simply filling the motor slightly less than halfway with ATF almost doubled the continuous power output.
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The zero motor is not limited by stator heat, its temp cutoff is limited by rotor heat (like a 60C deltaT stator to rotor iirc) . And that simply filling the motor slightly less than halfway with ATF almost doubled the continuous power output.
Do you have numbers to compare milling out the sides of the motor to air cool it ? I would love to see a comparison of the two.
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The zero motor is not limited by stator heat, its temp cutoff is limited by rotor heat (like a 60C deltaT stator to rotor iirc) . And that simply filling the motor slightly less than halfway with ATF almost doubled the continuous power output.
Do you have numbers to compare milling out the sides of the motor to air cool it ? I would love to see a comparison of the two.
Sadly no. All I have is word of mouth from probably the most reputable person in the subject. And he didnt go over air cooling. It cant hurt though.
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Sadly no. All I have is word of mouth from probably the most reputable person in the subject. And he didnt go over air cooling. It cant hurt though.
LFP using this?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=137&pcid=9 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=137&pcid=9)
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The zero motor is not limited by stator heat, its temp cutoff is limited by rotor heat (like a 60C deltaT stator to rotor iirc) . And that simply filling the motor slightly less than halfway with ATF almost doubled the continuous power output.
Do you have numbers to compare milling out the sides of the motor to air cool it ? I would love to see a comparison of the two.
Sadly no. All I have is word of mouth from probably the most reputable person in the subject. And he didnt go over air cooling. It cant hurt though.
X2 heard this before
atf for the win
I'm just unsure about having a box of oil right in front of my rear wheel; I'd rather have 7500-8000 rpms..... You know what I speak of...
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I'm just unsure about having a box of oil right in front of my rear wheel; I'd rather have 7500-8000 rpms..... You know what I speak of...
"Box of oil" is the standard of millions of motorcycles, we'll manage... [emoji6]
8000rpm on Zero's motor is doable with a bit of fibre glass or kevlar to hold the magnets. (carbon fiber is conductive, not good for that...)
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a monolith opening
Whee! I am looking forward to that. Can you explain quickly what the monolith even is?
I saw a bunch of apes clustered around mine, touching it and humming. Oh wait, those were the dealer service techs.
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The Monolith is the nickname for the battery pack, probably because it's a big black rectangle. ;)
Its where the un-isolated HV lives, all the HV lines before the contactor are in the monolith, so the chances of accidentally vapourising a tool/battery/yourself become a possibility. :)
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OK, I was asking because my power tank install instructions mentioned removing the fuse from the monolith, which is this small silver box located just forward of the seat. It's a separate unit from the controller or any batteries. I was wondering what the heck that was.
(And I just noticed in said instructions that it's indeed black in the photo, instead of silver.)
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The monolith is simply a housing that holds "X" number of individual modules (bricks).
Your Power Tank is a single 116VDC ZF 2.8 battery brick in it's own housing with it's own BMS card. When installed the interconnect cables add this 5'th module (when added to the ZF12.5) in parallel with the monolith battery pack.
The monolith contains 3 or 4 of these individual battery "bricks" depending on whether it's a ZF9.4 or ZF12.5.
These individual modules are connected in parallel to get the higher Power rating while retaining the same voltage.
Note that on 2014 models the monoliths were ZF8.5 and ZF11.4.
Slight improvement in power density for 2015 resulted in the higher rating.
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Hm. That sounds like the large black box at the front, but then this refers to a different small silver box, just aft of the power tank battery:
Remove the low power B+ fuse from the monolith. It is located on the left side of the motorcycle underneath the back end of the plastic tank at front of seat.
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The only "silver box" that I can think of on the Zero is the DC-DC Converter.
(not including the larger Sevcon Controller).
Neither the DC-DC Converter nor the (black) MBB have fuses built into them.
There is a box/tower attached to the top of the Monolith that we referred to as the "doghouse" that contains the contactor and other support components. IIRC this was black also.
Unfortunately all of my notes, documents and support info stayed on the laptop that was owned by and returned to Zero.
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Hi folks - New 2015 Zero S owner here, and trying to confirm if the R & G Racing Tail Tidy for the 2014 models also fits the 2015 models. R & G told me this week that that they hadn't tried it yet.
- kencycles
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My charger will be a bit more crude, but equally as powerful. :). followup on that in a later post in this thread.
Farfle, Im still waiting for when you post up about this:
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a507/sirfarfle1/Mobile%20Uploads/20151018_184615_zpst654ofmd.jpg)
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a507/sirfarfle1/Mobile%20Uploads/20151020_172625_zpsm47jzfti.jpg)
Especially now that I am building one for myself.
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...Installing a cycle analyst!!
CA's are an awesome dashboard, and being able to know pack voltage/amperage etc... will be very handy for later mods.
This post will be mainly for the groundwork of installing the shunt for the CA, with the rest of the install when I get mine in the mail.
But what shunt!?
I seem to recall Terry showing me his 1000 A shunt.
Googlling, I find things like this http://www.rammeter.com/ram-meter-inc-rfl1000a50-1000-amp-50-dcmv-dc-current-shunt.php (http://www.rammeter.com/ram-meter-inc-rfl1000a50-1000-amp-50-dcmv-dc-current-shunt.php)
It looks like they have bigger ones too.
http://www.rammeter.com/current-shunts?dir=asc&limit=99&order=price (http://www.rammeter.com/current-shunts?dir=asc&limit=99&order=price)
Is that the right kind of shunt?
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My charger will be a bit more crude, but equally as powerful. :). followup on that in a later post in this thread.
Farfle, Im still waiting for when you post up about this:
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a507/sirfarfle1/Mobile%20Uploads/20151018_184615_zpst654ofmd.jpg)
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a507/sirfarfle1/Mobile%20Uploads/20151020_172625_zpsm47jzfti.jpg)
Especially now that I am building one for myself.
Hi been curious for a while. WTF is it, some kind of resonant circuit. Explain ;-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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(re: Above) looks like DC-DC regulator?
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Hi been curious for a while. WTF is it, some kind of resonant circuit. Explain ;-)
Shadow nailed it:
(re: Above) looks like DC-DC regulator?
Its a DC-DC buck regulator that Farfle posted here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=72431
We independently had the same idea, but he actually completed his before I even started mine.
Short answer is... with modern power MOSFETs driven at high frequency we can run a smaller inductor and make a charger thats truly portable and fits in your hand.
The basic theory is that we dont need perfectly smooth power output, we can allow the power to pulse into the battery.. so using rectified AC power as an input isnt an issue. A more advanced one would follow the AC input with the PWM output and do some power factor correcting, but im more interested in keeping it tiny and simple.
My eventual goal is to have two fan cooled 7kw capable chargers that I can just toss in the tank bag or my backpack... I can then use both to take advantage of whatever power is there... In theory it could charge faster than the supercharger just because I would have two 6.6-ish kw inputs from separate plugs, while it only has one input.
But right now mine is just in testing. I havent even raised the voltage to Zero motorcycle levels yet, I just use it to charge my electric bicycle at a constant 12amp wall draw. I did something stupid, and now I need a new oscilloscope. so until I get one I am flying blind. Its been low on the to-do list for months now.
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That' quite intruiging.
Awesome solution, if it can be shut of once the battery reaches 114-115V.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That' quite intruiging.
Awesome solution, if it can be shut of once the battery reaches 114-115V.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the easy part. Lol.
When I last left off, I was having mosfet driver issues. I can't check what's going on though until I get a new scope.
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...Installing a cycle analyst!!
CA's are an awesome dashboard, and being able to know pack voltage/amperage etc... will be very handy for later mods.
This post will be mainly for the groundwork of installing the shunt for the CA, with the rest of the install when I get mine in the mail.
But what shunt!?
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ping
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...Installing a cycle analyst!!
CA's are an awesome dashboard, and being able to know pack voltage/amperage etc... will be very handy for later mods.
This post will be mainly for the groundwork of installing the shunt for the CA, with the rest of the install when I get mine in the mail.
But what shunt!?
...
ping
You can use any shunt, as the cycle analyst is very flexible.
Just pick any shunt that can take the full battery current through it. I would probably go for one thats 450a rated, but you can use your own personal judgement on that.
If you cant use your personal judgement on it and need someone to tell you exactly what shunt to use, you probably shouldnt be doing this mod.
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You can use any shunt, as the cycle analyst is very flexible.
Just pick any shunt that can take the full battery current through it. I would probably go for one thats 450a rated, ...
Thanks Mr. Dude!